The first blower turns on then just runs for about 5 minutes then it all shuts off because of no glow on the ignitor. I would like to suggest that you watch your furnace during a heating cycle. Ignitor will not glow. Thanks for providing an update, Peter! All of these can cause the furnace to overheat and go off on limit. The problem could be coming from the control board or any of the safety controls (pressure switch, limit or rollout switch). I have cleaned the flame sensor, and replaced the hot surface ignitor and I am still getting a fault 34. The main blower then comes on but at no point do I get any voltage to the ignitor. Hi John! The igniter is the most commonly replaced part on a furnace that won’t ignite or heat. The original furnace ignitor part calls for the IGN00145 80 volt ignitor with control board part number: CNT04678 superseded to CNT05160 and then Kit15816. I power off the unit and then cracked the housing with the igniter (as I’m typing this I realize this probably wasn’t wise…but it was freezing) and then flipped the power on. LP gas furnace gas pressures should be set with a manometer and have someone who if familiar with working on LP furnaces. Remember each time, a new limit switch solves the problem for 3 weeks. You should be getting 24 to 28 volts AC between at least one wire that goes into your limit switch to a good ground on the furnace body. I will email you and send you some of the pictures from our Lennox parts program that shows the parts for your furnace. Merry Christmas! So sorry to hear you are having this trouble and a run around between the propane company and furnace man. This sounds like you might have a loose connection or a control board problem. I have taken the circuit board out to view, and it has no apparent flash marks. Can’t figure out if it’s the igniter/sensor assembly or gas valve. Hi Mickey! On Rheem Ruud furnaces we will need both model number and serial number. Call now or click on the button below to schedule a service today. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. I hate to buy another part and try to hook up a new control unit if it’s not going to solve the problem, but I’m considering it. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Please make sure you do not touch the gray glass part of the ignitor. Please Click Here to see the name brand Furnace Ignitors. My repair man cannot find the problem – the board is reporting a fault when the furnace is in the failed state but replacing the board did not correct the problem. Also, please watch the ignitor and make sure it is turning off after the gas lights. Although this may seem obvious, be sure your thermostat is set to heat and that it's actually colder in your house than the temperature the thermostat is set to. We had furnace ignitor problem last night with our Bryant 90I furnace. All the wiring connections seem tight. Weather changed, set t-stat, inducer started, no ignition. I hope you have a great day! Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. According to the wiring diagram, I should be getting 115V to the igniter directly from the IFC. On the top we have pictures of three different types of flame sensors. David, Hi David! Intermittently, the furnace will cycle on and blow cool air. Most homeowners have a forced air gas furnace, which is what we will be troubleshooting in this blog. Thank you for all of this information. Probably the contacts inside the relay are welded together. Steve. I also checked continuity through the igniter by itself, and all the wires connected to it, all the way to the IFC mother board. Sorry that I can not be of more help or give you any other advice. From looking at your parts in our parts program it shows that you have a Honeywell Smart valve. If your furnace is not keeping your house at the temperature to which you set it, then you have a problem somewhere in your heating system. This means the furnace has failed to ignite. If all your safety controls check out right and the ignitor still will not glow then I would suggest that you test the voltage going to the ignitor. I am guessing at this point it might be the circuit board, is that a good assumption? One of the most common problems is that the blower motor makes a humming sound. The furnace tries a total of 3 times, then if flame is not established goes into hard lockout. If your furnace is going off on limit I would suggest making sure that the blower motor capacitor is in good condition, make sure that your evaporator AC coil is not stopped up on the underside, make sure that your gas valve pressure is adjusted properly to produce the furnace recommended temperature rise. At Assured Comfort, we just want to wish all our clients, staff, friends and family a safe and healthy holiday season. A good hot surface ignitor will have a resistance of. LP gas can be temperamental at ignition. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8″ in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Hope you have a great day and weekend! Everything is just about what to do when it won’t light. If your furnace won't ignite, there could be a few issues at hand. Thanks! You can use an ohm meter to check the ignitor to make sure it is good. I don’t smell any natural gas in the basement or around the burners. We sell furnace hot surface ignitors on the following page: If you do not visually see a crack in the ignitor, then I would suggest that you unplug the ignitor and take an ohm meter reading to see if the ignitor is burnt out. 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